Useful Information & Advice
How to troubleshoot C7039 digital lap counter
Videos to help you with your products
We recommend truing the tyres, even on new cars. To do this, hold the rear tyres against sandpaper whilst revving the car. This will remove any unevenness from the moulding process and increase the contact area with the track to improve grip performance.
Light cleaning of the track surface is recommended for daily use. We recommend using a damp cloth or very lightly oiled cloth. This removes light grime and dust from the track surface. Wipe surface dry after using a damp cloth. As a matter of good practice, always do this before using the Scalextric layout as this will help ensure you get the best grip from the car tyres.
Use a mild abrasive material to shine up the running surfaces of the pick-up rails, making sure that the male and female connections at the ends of the track sections are also bright and shiny.
If the track is tarnished (dull) or has rust spots, all you need to do is give the metal parts, around the affected area, a quick clean. I personally use a PECO PL-41 Rail Cleaner Rubber. Click here to purchase. They are amazing and you will need one after every few times of usage to keep the rails shiny for maximum performance. Alternatively you can give it a rub with very fine sandpaper or wire wool etc although these aren't recommended but will be sufficient for just the once.
If you have a circuit and the car isn't running round, a method to find out which pieces of track are affected is just to join one piece of track to the powerbase track and run a car on it. You don't need a circuit.
If you are experiencing slippy tyres, try swapping the front tyres for the rear tyres. You can also add extra weights inside the car or extra magnets.
There are four types of Scalextric track:
Classic / Vintage 1:32
Sport / Digital 1:32
Micro / My First 1:64
1:32 is the scale or size of the track. Scalextric Sport 1:32 is what most people call the current / normal size and cars are generally around 5 or 6 inches long. Micro Scalextric or My First Scalextric 1:64 scale is smaller with the cars at around 3 inches long.
Micro Scalextric and My First Scalextric are the same shape, just coloured differently, so fit together perfectly. Micro Scalextric and My First Scalextric cars will work on both tracks types.
Classic Scalextric or vintage is pre-2000 and usually from around the 70s, 80s or 90s.
Scalextric Sport or Digital are the same track types and are the current models. It is only the powerbase and throttles that make them differ from each other. Digital track has crossovers allowing the car to change lanes. Cars need to be fitted with a Digital Plug to make use of this feature. These are the most popular sets. Easier to join together tracks and a nicer feel.
Scalextric Start is the same size as sport and classic but different connectors.
Scalextric Sport Vs Scalextric Classic Vs Scalextric Start
Here is a brief guide explaining the comparison of Scalextric Sport, Scalextric Classic & Scalextric Start.
Any reference can be searched on our website by simply typing the name of the part or the ref such as C8222 into the search box at the top right of the page (magnifying glass icon).
The main advantages of Sport compared to the old Classic (vintage) sets are that the track sections are much easier to assemble, the track surface is smoother and gives better grip levels especially when using cars with Magnatraction. There is a wide range of variety of track sections available along with borders and barriers. The track slot is deeper allowing cars with deeper guides to be used. You can power each lane independently by adding additional transformers. Throttles are now wired for dynamic braking. The slot of the Sport track is deeper than Classic.
• Dynamic braking (when you take your finger off the throttle, the car slows down)
• Easier to assemble
• Better grip
• Variety of track and accessories
• The slot of the Sport track is deeper than Classic
• Deeper slot (will suit most cars, even other brands)
• Easier to change braids (metal brushes underneath the cars).
Scalextric ClassicScalextric Classic track ran from the 60s to the 90s. More info is available in our brief history section. It is still very popular and works very well.
• Some track pieces that aren’t available in Sport such as hump bridge, long chicane, obstacles, crossover straights, loop the loop, rev start and rough terrain
Scalextric StartStart is no longer in production.
The track types are quite limited and only has one curve radius and one type of straight length. There are no borders or barriers available. The material is a harder plastic than SPORT which makes it a little better to build bridges but this firmness also makes it more brittle. There is a converter piece available to connect SPORT and START together. While they look like different widths and slot depths they are basically the same.
The controllers have an adjustment to keep children and beginners from pressing down the trigger all the way. They also have no brakes. These controllers are also available for Sport.
The Start cars’ guide blade is slightly longer and squarer, although it is thinner and more prone to breaking.
You can run START cars on SPORT track (and vice-versa) with no problems.
• Beginners track
Other points to consider
The Classic, Sport and Start labels only apply to track. Scalextric Cars will generally be compatible on all three types.
Sport track will connect to either Scalextric Classic or SCX track by using adaptor sections part C8222.
Start track will connect to Sport track by using adaptor sections C8525.
All three track types can be cleaned in the same way.
Is it possible to run modern cars on the old style track?
Yes it is possible. If you are using the 'classic' track then you can only use non digital cars. Also, modern Scalextric cars have a deeper guide so they may catch in the groove - we sell replacement guides.
The easiest solution is to trim the bottom of the blade by a couple of millimetres. This can be done with a pair of cable snips, for example, by cutting a couple of millimetres from the bottom of the guide fin and then the front at a slight angle. Then use sand paper of a file to smooth the edges. It may be worth removing the guide fin from the car to prevent damage to the car.
Is the Sport track slot deeper than Classic track?
Yes. The Sport Track slot is slightly deeper than the Classic track by approximately 1-2 mm. The reason Scalextric have lengthened the guides is to increase performance on modern tracks and club tracks. See our section on running modern cars on old style track for how to adjust cars to suit.
Scalextric Classic 1:32 Track Reference Guide
C160 Standard Straight
C156 Inner Curve 90º
C151 Standard Curve 45º
C153 Outer Curve 22.5º
C187 Banked Curve 30º
C710 Track and Bridge Support Pack
C248 Hump Back Bridge
Scalextric Sport & Digital 1:32 Track Reference Guide
Table showing the letter references which are written on the underside of each Scalextric Sport track.
C7039 Digital electronic lap counter
Compatibility - Analogue and Digital
Why? The analogue control system is the traditional method which uses a basic resistive coil of wire in the hand controller to control the D.C. voltage sent to the track and car. The wires from the braids, in the car, connect directly to the D.C. motor.
The Digital system uses frequent digital data messages from the controller to a microprocessor fitted in the car. The track has an A.C. power supply which also goes to the microprocessor in the car. This microprocessor then controls a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) power feed to the D.C. motor based on the digital data messages from the controller.
Scalextric C7036 digital lane changing straight can be used with the ARC Pro. Scalextric C7007 C7008 C7009 C7010 digital curved lane changers will not work with Scalextric ARC Pro v0.3. See below for v0.4 info which will work.
Scalextric C7014 C7041 pit lanes will work with ARC Pro if used in the standard configuration.
Nesting i.e. two pit lane entry pieces followed by two exit pieces will not be a problem because all the pit lanes are powered from the first entry lane.
Using a pit lane piece in reverse to turn two lanes into a single lane chicane will not work.
The above issues occur because the ARC Pro powerbase needs to have a layout where there are always two lanes that are powered independently. Each of those lanes can be split to power more lanes but can never be combined back in a way that electrically combines the powerbase lanes 1 and 2.
Analogue Crossover tracks C8203 (Not the crossroads C8210) must be in pairs. The pair of crossover curves C8203 will work with ARC Pro and should not be confused with the Digital lane changer curves.
Power booster cables must be used strictly in the same way as you would for Analogue circuits.
The C7039 digital lap counter will not work in a circuit with ARC-Pro.
ARC Pro powerbase hardware and firmware upgrades
Hornby have upgraded the ARC Pro in 2018 to v0.4. This revision allows the ARC Pro to work with crossover curves. It also improves reliability with car ID pickup and a resistor upgrade so laps count if the lane change button is pressed when the car crosses the powerbase sensors.
The main differences between v0.3 and v0.4 are:
1) Track polarity correction.
2) Sensor resistors swap-out (2.2k Ohms to 510 Ohms).
3) Some modifications to how dual PSU power is handled.
4) v0.4 PIC18 firmware v2.4 or later.
How to tell which version of powerbase you have, or which you are purchasing
When purchasing, the title will say which version. To tell which version you have, in the top corner of the underside (sometimes this is in other places on the underside) there is a batch ref embossed.
The batch ref will look like the following:
This says 2519ERF01
The first four numbers mean week 25, year (20)19.
This means it was manufactured in the 25th week which was June.
The first hardware upgrade (polarity) was included in all powerbases with a batch ref of 1418REF01 or later, i.e. powerbases manufactured from the beginning of April 2018.
The second hardware upgrade (lap counting) was included in all powerbases from week 22 or June 2018.
Therefore, this example photo is v0.4
Another way to tell the difference between v0.3 and v0.4 by visual inspection is to look through the slatted heat vents (i.e. looking from the track towards the powerbase) you should be able to see the two white mouldings of the JST sockets. These are the connections for the two pairs of track sensors. If they are symmetrically positioned about 3cm apart, then it is v0.3. If they are asymmetrical and more like approx 6cm apart, then it is version v0.4.
Scalextric ARC Pro v0.3
Scalextric ARC Pro v0.4
Please let us know if you find any additions to this information so we can help the Scalextric community.
How to troubleshoot C7039 digital lap counter
To download the instructions
1) First, from the layout that you are testing the lap counter with, turn the power base over and look at the underside. If it says 'AZ1', then proceed to step 2. If it says 'A', unplug it, as it will not work due to being incompatible - This is a digital lap counter and 'A' means you have an analogue setup. If the power base says ARC Pro on the top then this lap counter will not work. Any other letters, please contact us.
2) Just connect the lap counter to the power base on its own. No other track. The power base is the piece of track that has the mains lead and throttles plugged into it. You should see the numbers light up on the lap counter. This means it is working.
Flashing random numbers occasionallyIt might be worth having a look at your braids. Make sure that they are not too splayed out or sticking up. Also give you track a good clean with a vacuum as you might have little bits of braid lurking in the track recesses causing the track to short (bits of metal bridging the pair of metal rails).
The lap counter misses laps occasionallyCheck the guide fins of the cars. If they are worn or not deep enough, they may not trigger the lap counter sometimes.The sensors in the track should pick up the car ID from the cars LED as it passes over, so you may need to clean the LED if it has become dirty. Check your braids as these can raise the nose of the car. If they are raising the car too much, it will not sit in the groove correctly.If none of these work, please contact us again with an exact description of the fault and which set it is being used with. Photos are very helpful.